From the Falklands, I took a flight to Chile and Punta Arenas, the southernmost large city in the world. There, I spoke with museum curators, indigenous peoples and scientists about climate change and cultural survival. Though certainly an impressive navigator, FitzRoy left something to be desired in other respects. On […]
Though the South Atlantic has been free of military conflict since 1982, geopolitics now extends to the realm of offshore oil. Aside from being disastrous in terms of climate change, further oil development could pose a danger to Magellanic Penguins. Moreover, military conflict has also damaged the environment, threatened wildlife […]
Stanley — an exaggerated sense of quaint English identity, cottages and gardens.
In Port Stanley, Darwin’s legacy is ever-present. The naturalist visited the Falklands Islands twice, in 1833 and 1834. On his first visit, Darwin surveyed wreckage in the coastal environment, which he called “quite lamentable.” On the second visit, in the wake of the Gaucho Rivero revolt, Darwin decried the small […]
In contrast to challenging weather and rough conditions on Saunders Island, disembarking on Carcass Island was more agreeable. A vexing environmental question in the Falklands is how to conserve native tussac grass, which has been severely diminished due to sheep grazing. After hiking down the road, we came to a […]
Before landing in Port Stanely, the Oosterschelde toured outer islands in the Falklands archipelago. First stop: desolate and sparsely populated Waddell Island. Sheep grazing has hardly been a boon to the environment in the Falklands, and perhaps kelp farming could be a sustainable alternative. A pontoon boat in the middle […]
In Puerto Madryn, the sea was too rough to reach the Darwin 200 initiative, which meant postponing departure. The following day, waves had subsided and I took a motor boat out to the Oosterschelde. Aboard the Oosterschelde: crew, passengers and other members of the Darwin 200 initiative including scientists and […]
Darwin visited the Falklands Islands twice, in 1833 and 1834, spending more time in the archipelago than he did in the Galápagos. At the time, the British government had grown concerned about U.S. naval activity in the South Atlantic. Indeed, the Americans had been at odds with one Louis Vernet, […]
Prevented from traveling to La Esperanza due to the fire and blazes, I took a side trip to Punta Tombo Nature Reserve in the province of Chubut. While there, I spoke with nature guides and park rangers in an effort to assess the state of local wildlife. Historically, Punta Tombo […]
La Esperanza wildlife refuge encompasses a coastal strip full of wildlife — 81 species of animals, including marine mammals and birds. In an echo of Darwin, who uncovered ancient fossil beds demonstrating the inexorable passage of geologic time, the area is also an excellent site to hunt for shells in […]
