Chile and the Indigenous Past


In Punta Arenas, I paid a visit to Maggiorino Borgatello Museum.  Fuegian indigenous peoples adapted to the harsh environment in Tierra del Fuego, pursuing a nomadic life on land and sea.  They survived for thousands of years, but have become almost extinct since the era of European contact. In Concepción, […]

Ancient Sloth Cave and Torres del Paine National Park


From Punta Arenas, I traveled several hours north to the ancient ground sloth cave: Mylodon, which lived between 1.8 million years 12,000 years ago.  Remains have been found throughout South America, demonstrating Mylodon was adaptable to cold climates.  Though it was mainly vegetarian, Mylodon was also an opportunistic omnivore.  In […]

Darwin’s Legacy in Chile


From the Falklands, I took a flight to Chile and Punta Arenas, the southernmost large city in the world.  There, I spoke with museum curators, indigenous peoples and scientists about climate change and cultural survival.  Though certainly an impressive navigator, FitzRoy left something to be desired in other respects.  On […]

Legacy of the Falklands War


Though the South Atlantic has been free of military conflict since 1982, geopolitics now extends to the realm of offshore oil.  Aside from being disastrous in terms of climate change, further oil development could pose a danger to Magellanic Penguins.  Moreover, military conflict has also damaged the environment, threatened wildlife […]

Darwin’s Legacy in the Falklands


In Port Stanley, Darwin’s legacy is ever-present.  The naturalist visited the Falklands Islands twice, in 1833 and 1834.  On his first visit, Darwin surveyed wreckage in the coastal environment, which he called “quite lamentable.”  On the second visit, in the wake of the Gaucho Rivero revolt, Darwin decried the small […]

Exploring Carcass Island


In contrast to challenging weather and rough conditions on Saunders Island, disembarking on Carcass Island was more agreeable. A vexing environmental question in the Falklands is how to conserve native tussac grass, which has been severely diminished due to sheep grazing. After hiking down the road, we came to a […]

From Waddell to Saunders Island


Before landing in Port Stanely, the Oosterschelde toured outer islands in the Falklands archipelago.  First stop: desolate and sparsely populated Waddell Island. Sheep grazing has hardly been a boon to the environment in the Falklands, and perhaps kelp farming could be a sustainable alternative. A pontoon boat in the middle […]

Darwin 200 initiative in the South Atlantic


In Puerto Madryn, the sea was too rough to reach the Darwin 200 initiative, which meant postponing departure.  The following day, waves had subsided and I took a motor boat out to the Oosterschelde. Aboard the Oosterschelde: crew, passengers and other members of the Darwin 200 initiative including scientists and […]

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