Uzhgorod: Welcome to Rusyns, Hutsuls and the Ethnographic Museum


Around Uzhgorod in the Carpathian Mountains, one may encounter the Rusyn people.  One of the Rusyn clans, the Hutsuls, have their own traditional clothing.  In Kyiv’s National Historical Museum, one display showcased a folkloric Hutsul vest. In Uzhgorod, I went to the ethnographic museum for a peek into rural life. […]

Lviv: Welcome to Thorny Nationalist Politics


From a cultural perspective, Lviv is considered to be one of the strongest centers of Ukrainian nationalism.  To the outside observer, such local expressions of nationalism seem to range from the benign and folksy to the somewhat jarring. Embroidered dresses can be found for sale in the tourist center of […]

Voyage to Lviv: Echoes of Central Europe


The western Ukrainian city of Lviv, which was formerly known as Lemberg when it formed part of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire, feels more akin visually to central Europe. Lviv prides itself on its cosmopolitan coffee shops and chocolate.  Art deco or art nouveau buildings peek out here and there.

Ukraine: Welcome to Air-Brushed Civil War


How will people ever become aware of the political legacy of Nestor Makhno, an anarchist leader during the Ukrainian Civil War?  Not by visiting Kyiv’s Museum of the Ukrainian Revolution, that’s for sure.  As an attendant explained to me, the museum’s intention was to simply showcase the Ukrainian Republic as […]

Yalta European Strategy: From Bono to Pinchuk to Zakaria to Spaceships


One thing’s for sure, Ukrainian magnate Viktor Pinchuk never fails to disappoint.  Hosted once again in the grand Kyiv Arsenal Museum, this year’s Yalta European Strategy (or YES) meeting featured the usual defense hawks and conservative commentators (for a rundown of last year’s YES conference, featuring my extensive commentary on […]

Graffiti and Rebel Culture: A Personal Journey From Brooklyn to Berkeley to Caracas to the Former Soviet Union to Berlin and Back Again


For some time, I’ve been slightly ambivalent toward graffiti though the idealist in me has always believed that in the long-run, reclaiming the urban environment might encourage the rise of a more radical political consciousness.  As cities embrace gentrification and homogenization at an increasingly breakneck pace, the need to carve […]

El Mundo Donaldo: A Satire


Na Zdorovie!             OF COURSE there was COLLUSION!  It all goes back to my meeting with Vlad at his lavish St. Petersburg dacha.  From the first moment he flashed those baby blues, I felt the keen stirrings of sexual desire in my nether regions.  Who could resist a strapping beefcake […]